Hubert de Givenchy wound up an exciting week of summer haute couture with a parade of his gala couture clothes for women who want to look on the sexy side. Spanish-born Paco Rabanne won the Golden Thimble Award for his amusing, lively collection that made full use of ``new'' materials like fringed raffia, crystal-globe embroideries and sequined leather. Two-time winner Christian Lacroix finished a close second in the semiannual prize awarded by an international jury of fashion journalists. Givenchy's show, on Thursday, was magnificent. From caramel leather shorts topped by fresh and airy white linen blouses to the most extravagantly opulent evening wear, the show ranked as one of best this master of the fine art of couture has ever produced. His narrow rustic linen suits or belted knee-revealing dresses in shades of bright blue, rust, peach, and golden sand with their bold silver buttons couldn't be faulted for daytime. Givenchy brought out plenty of trouser suits, tailored in soft gabardines or shiny linen tweeds. He solved the dilemma of see-through chiffon blouses with a white-dotted transparent black number sporting a big floppy bow to hide bosom details. The sharp Givenchy silhouette with padded shoulders in suits was softened up with considerable sexiness for late-day wear. Even the bridal number was barely more than a sprig of pastel silk flowers on a prancing nude. But the main elements of style were there. Almost every evening outfit was a show-stopper. His enormous-flowered gazar and organza evening gowns were breathtaking. The fabrics featured bold poppies, daisies, lilies of the valley or daffodils on hot-colored backgrounds of kelly green, citron, tomato, purple or fuchsia. Some white faille bustier gowns with black-lace embroidery glowing with siren-red chiffon or affeta wraps were dynamite, guaranteeing a grand entrance. Valentino, who has shown luxury ready-to-wear for 10 years in Paris, has finally abandoned Italy as a showcase, choosing a Trocadero museum auditorium for his second Paris couture show. On Wednesday night, he brought out a dazzling show of glamorous clothes for rich women, the outfits looking particularly light and young. He led off and ended with swingy, short clothes in his original signature color of white, suits cut with longer jackets and short skirts, waves of accordion pleats around for dancing skirts. Otherwise, Valentino spiced the show with lots of his favorite hot reds and soft tones like celdadon, wisteria, peach and silvery gray in the softest of fabrics like cashmere, silk crepe and acres of flounced chiffon _ a Paris must for couture. Valentino used a lot of tricky latticework in his late-day toppers and the sumptuous evening wear included all kinds of elaborate draping, pleated transparent capes, sequined pastille embroideries on chiffon, and tiers of lace. Per Spook as usual went his own way in a simplified, sporty view of couture that has nothing to do with pretension or grandiose entrances. Except for a few charming buttoned jersey short shift dresses, he seemed allergic to leggy looks. His trouser outfits were cut a bit baggy around the ankle and he often topped these with cute layered styles from a bustier top to a blouse-jacket. But if the 1990s are going to be full of color and feminine clothes as most couturiers seem to think, Spook's best contributions are in some of his bright print sporty toppers and adorable evening wear.
